i'm studying at la universidad de las americas in puebla, mexico, from january to may 2007. ven conmigo en mis aventuras!

28 April 2007

¿que onda, cholula?

i just woke up - extremely disoriented - from a really bizarre dream. here´s the set-up: instead of coming home from mexico and staying in the states, i moved immediately on to valpo´s cambridge, england program. i mean immediately. i went to cincinnati, unpacked my bags, repacked my bags (with gloves and a scarf!) and hopped on a plane to london, where i met my new british roommates, decided to go to ireland for st. patrick´s day, and fell asleep in my bed in england. and then i woke up in my real bed in mexico.

i think this is a sign that i´m worried about culture shock and the fact that i don´t know what´s going on with my life after i leave mexico. both of which are true. oy vey.

so, i leave mexico next monday. how did that happen??

this past week was our last full week of classes. i turned in a couple of final papers, did a few final presentations (2 of them on fair trade coffee!), and have a couple more papers to turn in. we have classes on monday and wednesday of this coming week, but tuesday is el primer día de mayo, which apparently means we don´t have classes. april 30th is mexican childrens day and may 5th is obviously cinco de mayo (which, btw, commemorates a battle fought right here in puebla! more on that later.), but may 1st we get off school. no entiendo. i have 2 finals on thursday, 1 on friday, and then i´m done.

next sunday (the day before we leave), 4 of the valpo girls and the 3 minnesota guys are making a return trip to taxco... just for a last hoorah in mexico. we´re spending less than 24 hours there, and taking a bus to the mex city airport early the next morning so we can make our flights. i love taxco, so i´m pretty sure it´s a good place to spend my last night in mexico!

this weekend is my last in the greater cholula / puebla area. most everyone else went off to tlaxcala for the weekend, but i stuck behind to get things done. leah and mel and i are making some good old american food (bbq chicken, apple pie, & pralines), but first today, our friend vero is making us mole oaxaqueño. she has as much pride in her traditional oaxacan food as i have in ¨traditional¨(?) cincinnati food! then we´re headed into cholula to do some market hopping and buying of last-minute presents. tonight, it´s out to bambuko´s for our friend jen´s birthday and the fin de año.

last weekend was our last VU trip, to the aztec town of cuetzalan in the northernmost part of puebla (it´s at the end of the paved highway). the trip takes about 3 -4 hours and we were in a huge tour bus with its own bathroom - thank goodness, because i had food poisoning or some weird stomach bug & spent the majority of the trip in the bathroom, giving myself the title of queen of the vom bomb squad. i couldn´t even keep down a couple of sips of liquids, which was pretty awful. i missed most of the destinations on the trip, just because i was sleeping on the bus, but i did get to go to our last archeological site! everyone else went to the market in town, where everyone does their daily shopping. apparently it was even more intense than the one in cholula and they definitaly stuck out more with their blatant gringo-ness there. we also stopped at a chicken and black bean restaurant on the way home (helloooo, heaven!), but i could only eat a tortilla or two.

i´ve been feeling rather ill & aztec two-stepping on and off all week since then, but i think my stomach´s getting back to normal finally. go figure i wouldn´t get sick like that at the beginning of the trip like a normal person, but in my last 2 weeks, when i thought i was in the clear. boo.

we´ve been listening to pat xm satellite radio alot lately to get re-caught-up on what music´s on the radio in the states these days. i´m pretty sure they´re not going to be playing ¨no me digo que no¨ back at home, eh? anyway, most of the current music in the states sounds kind of boring to me. even the song shakira and beyoncé do together! also, a few weeks ago, my roommate was listening to music on her computer and beyoncé´s song ¨irreplaceable,¨ that was pretty new when i came down here, came on and i got really homesick. maybe just because i hadn´t heard it in awhile or because i realized you can miss alot in 4 months, but i´m not sure. i hadn´t really gotten homesick before that! random.

yesterday was rachel´s 20th birthday and i discovered how to call the states from a pay phone - using a phone card with only TWO minutes on it. so i got to talk to anne martina for a couple of seconds and then leave rachel a voicemail on her cell phone. and today is deanna´s 21st birthday as well! i hate missing these things!

el tigre is still a haven for creepsters. my latest encounter was with an argentinian guy who told me all about his girlfriend back in argentina while dancing in an inappropriate manner with me. not cool.

and an update on my summer plans, if that´s at all possible: i´m in the market for some cheap housing in seattle (ha! that´s an oxymoron if i ever heard it!) and am hoping to take an internship with the washington fair trade coalition (www.washingtonfairtrade.com) / the community alliance for global justice (www.seattleglobaljustice.org). with some paid work on the side, probably with the seattle aquarium or the pacific science center gift shops. (10 points for event network hookups!) i recently received an email, though, about possible internships in columbus (ohio) and san francisco, so let´s be honest... i still have no idea where i´ll be or what i´ll be doing. cincinnati is still an option, too.

there´s a hummingbird right outside the window!

i´ll be back in valpo late on the night of may 7th, by the way, in case you want to plan accordingly...

and, now i´m off to the store with leah - to buy ingredients for the food we´re making this weekend and also probably some cranberry juice, too. we want vero to try root beer, as well, so i hope they have that!

xoxoxo.

18 April 2007

(for my sister)

summer / fall 2007 booklist
(suggestions welcome! bolded takes priority.)

1. irresistible revolution, by shane claiborne
2. god´s politics, by jim wallis
3. the audacity of hope, by barack obama
4. it takes a village, by hilary clinton (i suppose i should give the woman a chance??)
5. how the garcia girls lost their accents, by julia alvarez
6. the white man´s burden, by william easterly
7. the house on mango street, by sandra cisneros
8. the awakening, by kate chopin (re-read)
9. the tortilla curtain, by t.c. boyle
10. in the walled gardens, by anahita firouz
11. the ornament of the world, by maria rosa menecal
12. reinventing the melting pot, by tamar jacoby
13. the year of yes, by m.d. headley (teach me something, maybe??)
14. like lives, by lorrie moore
15. even cowgirls get the blues, by tom robbins
16. memoirs of a geisha, by arthur golden
17. the poisonwood bible, by barbara kingsolver
18. the great gatsby, by f. scott fitzgerald (re-read)
19. beloved, by toni morrison
20. three cups of tea, by greg mortenson
21. grace (eventually), by anne lamott
22. eat, pray, love, by elizabeth gilbert
23. the difference a day makes, by karen m. jones
24. how to make the world a better place, by jeffrey hollander
25. the daring female´s guide to ecstatic living, by natasha kogan
26. the better world handbook, by ellis jones
27. a thousand splendid suns, by kalled husseini
28. the red tent, by anita diamant
29. the glass castle, by jeannette walls
30. palestine, by joe sacco (a graphic novel!)

15 April 2007

miscelaneous-ness

this is going to be rather disjointed, i´m sure, because i´ve been busy lately & i´d like to write it all down. i´m sorry in advance.

to get back to campus from the cholula house, it´s necessary to take about a 2 minute busride down the recta [one of cholula´s main streets] right to the UDLA entrance. if walking back to campus, it takes about 20 minutes going to the back entrance. on tuesday, we accidentally got on a san andres bus going to the UDLA, which takes a 45 minute hike through the neighborhood of san andres [where the UDLA is; the cholula house is in san pedro] before getting back to campus. it was a pretty sweet ride, because i saw lots of parts of town i hadn´t seen before [for instance, most everything on the other side of the pyramid] - essentially, we got a bus tour of town for only 4 pesos!

one of the best parts of mexico is its randomness, so here is a list of some of the random things i saw on this busride:
1. a random mound of earth and bricks with trees on top [i later realized it is an unexcavated archeological site... i think]
2. fields filled with flowers on the 2 far sides of the pyramid
3. 234 of the 365 catholic churches cholula has to offer
4. one was white and turquoise and covered in small cherubs
5. celebration flags hanging across streets, leftover from easter
6. a place to go paintballing in someone´s backyard
7. animals: ostriches, cows, horses, chickens running down the street, some lambs
8. football practice at the UDLA, where 1/2 of the players were on their hands & knees and the other half were walking along behind them, kicking them in the rear end [???]
9. a kid who stood up in the back seat and waved at everyone we passed, saying it was his dad and brother
10. a pulquería

on thursday night there was an earthquake off mexico´s west coast. it rocked acapulco pretty bad [about 5-6 hours away], shook buildings pretty nicely in mex city, and some people here in puebla felt it. unfortunately, i was in bambuko´s and didn´t feel a thing... maybe because i was swaying a bit on my own or maybe because it´s essentially a bamboo hut and it probably moves in the wind anyway.

friday morning, a couple of us had to go to the bimbo bread factories [yes, isn´t bimbo a funny name for a company??] for our business class. it was pretty interesting to see how bread and tortillas and donuts and hot dog buns are made, and the factories actually were pretty clean and it didn´t look like the working conditions were too awful. it was funny, though, because i had toast when i woke up that morning [made with bimbo bread] and ironically re-joined the vom bomb squad right before leaving for their headquarters. hmmm... needless to say, i didn´t eat any of the free carb-filled treats they gave us in our goodie bags por gratis!

last night was jess´s 20th bday celebration, again at bambuko´s. i actually got dressed up last night, and go figure - on the way to the bar, i walked under a tree and some bird poop landed on my shirt. [the bird´s here are far too well fed. they poop on everyone!] my drink of choice last night was called a ronaldo... hoorah for brazil fútbol love!

speaking of soccer, krista and andrea and i had a lazy movie-filled afternoon and watched ¨goal 2¨ [xoxo david beckham!] and ¨the other side of the world.¨ i also climbed the pyramid again with mallory yesterday morning. picture taking and book reading ensued at the top. it was cool to actually be acquainted enough with the town to be able to point out things like the udla campus, the intersection of forjadores and the recta, the cholula house[´s whereabouts], and the zócalo. then mallory fell down the pyramid. don´t worry, she´s okay, and no, i didn´t push her. we ate some amazing guanábana popsicles on the top too.

today pat and jess and i had a pueblan adventure - the best kind! we were supposed to go to a couple of museums so we could give presentations about them in sally´s class on tuesday. unfortunately, pat was supposed to present on the natural history museum, which we discovered to be closed after we paid 8 USD to take a taxi there. instead, we ended up wandering around the battle of puebla forts [the reason for cinco de mayo - yes, it originates right here in puebla!], which involved bushes that had been pruned into the shape of a cannon and some illegal foto-taking.

i was supposed to check out the historic UAP building [the universidad autónoma de puebla], which was still standing, but definitely not open to the public. so we wandered awhile, looking for the contemporary art museum, but instead stumbled upon a parade of teenagers wearing traditional clothing from different parts of mexico and then into the ruins of what was apparently the first franciscan convent in puebla. they made bricks there and we saw what was left of the ovens. i suppose it was interesting, but definitely not what we needed for our projects.

we tried to go out for tamales yesterday, but were unsuccessful. if you ever come to mexico, you´ll have to be patient, because businesses have very erratic hours of being open. you may WANT something, but it´s pretty likely that it won´t be open when you want it. like the fair trade coffee shop that´s never open at 9 or 10 or 11 am when i desperately need some café. maybe it opens at noon? oh, and jess and i ate molotes the other night as well, which are basically fried quesadillas filled with whatever you want and covered in crema and salsas. mine were potato and cheese and - of course - i´m in love.

apparently we only have two weeks left of classes, 1 week of finals, and then it´s back to the USA. this is very bizarre for a couple of reasons:

1. i never really though about what it would be like to return home, just about what it would be like to come here
2. i´m going to have some severe culture shock
3. i´m going to have to change my habits, including how to answer a phone, how to dispose of tp, how to say ¨excuse me¨ when passing someone in a crowd, how to signal that i agree with someone in conversation, how to signal that i disagree with someone in conversation, how to tell someone to ¨come here¨, how to bless someone when they sneeze, how to eat my food, and ... many other things. you guys are going to have to bear with me!
4. i have no idea what i´m doing this summer or where i´ll be
5. i will be tanner than you :D
6. i have no substantial travel plans after this, which is very very weird
7. i will no longer be in the minority / everyone around me will be speaking english / be able to understand what i say
8. my life will seriously be lacking in soccer. i wish this summer was the world cup instead of last summer so it´d be on all the time like here! boo.



next weekend is our last VU trip -- we´re going to a market in a town that starts with a Q about 4 hours away, but still in the state of puebla for just one day. jess and kelly and i are talking about heading to san miguel de allende, this really artsy town north of mex city, one of these weekends as well. other than that, i think i´m pretty much done travelling in mexico, which is shocking! i´m going to have to come back sometime and hit up the state of chiapas [in the south] and the yucatán area, among other things.


and then i have to pack up my room and lug it back north of the border in only 2 suitcases... ay yi yi.

12 April 2007

los mercados mexicanos

remember when i tried to describe what markets are like here, but failed miserably to give a description that did them justice? well, if you were curious to know more, you are in luck. the other day, i was re-reading the mexico section of a book called tales of a female nomad [that i originally read on the plane ride down here] and came upon a brilliant description of a mexican market. this might be a little botched [the keyboard i am using is rather dodgy] and its a bit long, but its wonderful and i have to share...


entering the market through a side entrance, i am immediately surrounded by pinatas: mickey mouse, goofy, donald duck, and an assortment of animals and aliens dressed in their colorful paper mache skins. they are standing on the floor and hanging over my head, hundreds of donkeys and dinosaurs, cats and dragons, boys and girls, hogs and bugs. all the colors of the rainbow are swirling in front of me, swinging to the salsa music that is blasting out of unseen speakers. i am swinging, too. the brassy, percussive sound of the caribbean is contagious.

then i am out of pinatas and into avocados, shades of brown and green in massive piles on flowered oilcloth. then mounds of sweet smelling mangos fight for my attention with the pineapples. there are booths of papayas, red, yellow, and green. bananas, big and small, thin and fat. dozens of varieties of peppers and chiles fresh and dried and mounded in cubicles. tomatillos, jicama, carrots, tomatoes, and bunches of green leaves. for awhile, cilantro dominates the air, until i pass a table full of oregano. seconds later, i stop next to a table covered with yellow squash blossoms and wonder what they taste like.

there are children in the booths, babies swinging in tiny hammocks, nine year olds wooing customers, "senora, buy my watermelon. good taste. sweet."

i pass through mountains of green and red and brown and rust colored pastes, three feet high, the essence of mole sauces, redolent of cloves and garlic, oregano and cinnamon. nothing is wrapped in plastic or sealed in containers. it is all there to be smelled and seen and tasted and bought. i am surrounded by the colors, the smells, the sounds of a culture that lives life full out.

there are brains and stomachs and kidneys and tongues, feet and tails and intestines. butchers are slapping and smashing meet on huge wooden blocks, beating red blobs into tenderness. they are scissoring and chopping up yellow chickens that have been fed marigolds so their skin and flesh are gold. heads here, feet there. innards sorted.

the butchers are mincing beef and hacking pork, sharpening knives and chopping slabs. cleaving, slapping, scissoring, beating. its a spectacular percussion band, with its own peculiar instruments.

the shoppers, thick in the aisles, are carrying string and plastic and cloth bags full of newspaper wrapped packages of their purchases.

i wriggle through the crowd to peer into waist high vats of thick white cream and barrells of white ground corn dough called masa. i cannot stop smiling at the explosion of joy i have felt since i passed under the canopy of pinatas. its exciting to be exploring a world i know nothing about, discovering new smells, and moving through a scene where i am a barely noticed minority of one, swallowed up by the crowd.

- rita golden gelman
basically she said it better than i ever could. and i promise there really are that many things to see and smell and enjoy in every market ive visited. enjoy!

08 April 2007

welcome back to cholula, where the weather is actually rather chilly sometimes. (yes, i´m aware that it´s currently snowing in most of the midwest.) compared to the blazing hot sunshine i left in puerto escondido yesterday afternoon, the cholulan weather was rather refreshing - i was glad i decided to wear pants on the bus even though i had been regretting it while still on the coast! (i´m pretty sure the sentence ¨long pants were invented by the devil¨ was used. and frequently.)

however, before i recap my week, first things first: while on break, i had to schedule my classes for the fall, so for anyone who may have classes with me (or for my roommates, who are probably wondering when i´ll be around), here´s the rundown...

econ 326A: international economics (with shankar raman! weee!!)
ieca 493A: ieca senior seminar
socw 330EV: vulnerable populations
fls 220A: hispanic literature (con carlos!)
gs 200EVA: study circle on race relations

this leaves mondays free until 7pm and fridays end at 9:55am, which = weekend trips? yay!


so how was my beach vacation? fabulous, of course! it was hot as blazes most of the time (okay, all the time), which made sunbathing uncomfortable, but sure gave the guys who owned beach umbrellas quite a bit of business! i read two and a half books (¨another roadside attraction¨ by tom robbins, ¨five familes¨ by some anthropologist whose name i forget, and ¨dancing for cuba¨ by alma guillermoprieto).

we spent lots of time at three of the beaches that puerto has to offer: playa carazillo, a small cove about 2 blocks from our house, playa principal (crowded), and playa zicatela, the surfer beach, which was my favorite and not because of the surfers. the water is lovely, the waves are huge (copacabana beach style!), and at the cove by our house the sand is not so fine, so it makes removal rather easy and convenient. there were small restaurants up and down the beaches, which made it easy to order guacamole and piña coladas as often as i liked! at one point, i forgot to take will ferrell´s advice that milk is the bad choice when it´s hot outside, and ordered a milkshake. no, but seriously. BAD choice.

our most frequent restaurant stops were along the short strip right by our house: los vaqueros (that means ¨the cowboys¨ so basically everyone ate hamburgers or chicken nuggets) and los tugas (the portuguese restaurant that served curries and caipirinhas!). also, on the strip by the playa principal, there was an amazing pizza restaurant called mario´s, and we loved it so much that we ordered 3 pizzas to go and took them on the busride home. amazing.

our house was fabulous and the woman who owned it was super helpful and amazingly nice. we had the place to ourselves. she lives upstairs and we had to the two downstairs rooms, an indoor bathroom, and an outdoor bathroom at our disposal. in the morning, she set out good coffee, some fruit, and pan dulce for breakfast, and we ate at the picnic table outside in the front yard. the house isn´t air conditioned, so we basically wore the bare minimum of clothes that is socially acceptable in mixed company so we didn´t die of heat exhaustion. nights weren´t so bad, though, with the fan on and the windows open. we spent alot of our evenings just hanging out around the picnic table, watching movies and drinking boones farm and talking.

one night we decided we couldn´t tolerate the heat anymore, so we went to cinemar, a very very small movie theatre near the playa zicatela, that shows movies for really cheap in air conditioning. there are only 12 seats and we shared the place with some british guys. the movie was ¨the prestige¨ which wasn´t all that good, but the power on the whole block went out right at the climax of the movie so i have no idea how it ends. must go to the fayuca and buy it soon....

another night included partying on the rooftop of a bar. it´s too hot to be inside!

on our last morning (yesterday?), we got up at 6:30 and went on a boatride to go watch seaturtles and dolphins do their thing. it was fabulous! did you know sea turtles mate for up to 10 hours?! and we followed a family of dolphins around for a good half hour, just getting kicks watching them jump out of the water. the turtles were more spaced out and we´d randomly happen upon one or two and our guide would go ¨otra tortuga...¨ and then we´d move on. toward the end of the ride, sam and dan got to catch fish, which were immediately beat over the head with a huge wooden stick, splattering blood everywhere and making me thankful i hadn´t eaten breakfast before i went out. urrrgh.

the pacific coast doesn´t believe in white meat, by the way. i ate TONS of quesadillas and even more guacamole. good food, but it got repetitive.

by the way, did you notice up above where i said we took 3 pizzas on the busride home with us?

the busrides were fair. our bus there left 2 hours late, but we somehow managed to get to puerto around noon on saturday anyway. i basically slept most of the time, but woke up in the morning in time to watch some awful movies: one was about some ridiculously angsty teenagers who like to blow stuff up, do drugs, and have sex when they´re only 13. i slept 15 hours on the way home, thanks to dramamine. i woke up long enough to watch 50 first dates, and literally slept the entire rest of the trip. apparently we almost drove off the sides of mountains a couple times and randomly stopped on the side of the road for an hour around 2 am, so i´m kind of glad i was asleep for that...


today, we celebrated easter cholula-house-style. mel and i cooked for people (7 valpies & 2 MNers), breaded herb chicken and grandpa´s potatoes, with a recipe mel and i kind of threw together from memory. i´m happy to report that everything turned out fabulous & i can now cross ¨learn how to make grandpa´s potatoes¨ off of my life goals list. easter cholula-house-style also involved us running out of gas to light the stove / oven / hot water heater right before the chicken had to go in the oven and in the middle of the potatoes boiling, then running out of water entirely right when we needed to do dishes. go figure. we were troopers, though, and solved the problems. this celebration also included sam & pat praying to ¨8 pound 6 ounce baby jesus...¨ yesssssssss.

my easter present to myself was buying 2 books off amazon so i have something to keep myself occupied this summer. i´m going to have to rediscover the library when i come back, because i can´t keep spending this much money on books!

and tonight, we went to see el tirador (i think it´s called shooter in the states?), the new mark wahlberg movie. it´s really good and i definitely recommend everyone see it - unless you don´t like violent movies. then you should for sure avoid it. it had some really interesting social commentary and, of course, great shots of marky mark´s biceps. and a good car chase. good movie. it was bizarre, however, to walk out of the theatre and see a man holding a huge gun right after watching a movie filled with gunfights. it was just a guard, but still...


and so. now it´s crunch time, as yesterday signified that i only have a month left in mexico. i guess that means i´m down to something like 30 days now? goodness, how time flies!

this brings thoughts about summer (who knows what i´ll be doing or where i´ll be?! the options are seattle - where i´ve been offered a really great internship, toronto - where i´m hoping to be offered an even better internship, or cincinnati - where i´d spend summer #4 in the zooshops) and then senior year and then the rest of my life, which is rather terrifying. i´m weighing my options for what to do after i graduate as well (grad school? peace corps? backpacking through europe?), but i suppose we´ll discuss that later, because it´s definitely time for bed...

02 April 2007

spring break

i´m here in beautiful (humid!) puerto escondido. i´m currently at an outdoor internet cafe (sweating, of course), watching espn´s news ALL about the yankees (boo). i sat down here just in time to see the bucks lose to florida. :(

the red sox are on!! unfortunately, it looks as if this season started off with a 7-1 to the kansas city royals. yet another boo. not a good sports day for me!

i´m tanner, un poco más sunburned, and we have an outdoor shower at our house, so that´s absolutely fabulous after a long day at the beach.

i just had dinner at a portuguese restaurant, where i was served the most amazing likeness to an indian curry that i´ll probably ever have in mexico. considering i´ve had about 5 dreams involving ambar india in the past month, this was basically the most exciting thing to happen to me. the owner enjoyed me and amanda alot, and gave us chocolate cake on the house. and i had a mojito. goodness. happy stomach.

i think tomorrow i´m going to try to hit up the organic coffee co-op near town, since coffee growers are muy cerca de mi corazón (to use an eric-ism). waking up late and sitting outside drinking coffee and eating bananas has been the life, as well.

i also think we´re going to check out the surfers´ beach sometime soon. you know, check out guys and all that fun stuff. sam & dan will surely enjoy that too, eh?

i might go now, so i dont have to pay a whole dollar for this internet use! (it´s about 50 cents for a half hour)

landon donovan is on tv now. goodness. i guess i´ll watch him for awhile.....